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CordoalDress Shoemakers
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Derby Plain Toe, three-quarter view
Underside of the blake sole, showing the stitching
The sole, seen from underneath. Resoleable, but only with a Blake machine.
The material label sewn inside the shoe, carrying the three legal pictograms
The label sewn inside, carrying the same three symbols as the table below.

B-04 · Footwear

Derby Plain Toe

No cap, no punching, no decoration at all.

$288

One-time purchase. No subscription, no membership tier. Free standard shipping over $199.

A plain-toe derby with an unbroken vamp. Nothing on the surface distracts from the leather, which means any flaw in the hide would show — so only clean sections are cut for this pattern.

  • Unbroken vamp, no seams across the toe
  • Blake stitched
  • Cut only from clean hide sections
Size — European, with the foot length it fits

The small number is the foot length in centimetres that size fits, not the shoe length. How to measure

Last

This pattern is cut on the Standard last only. See what we cut on the Wide last

View bag

Legal guarantee of 3 years on new goods under Portuguese law, with conformity presumed for the first 2 years. Read the guarantee

14 days to change your mind. Try them on carpet indoors. Wearing them outdoors reduces their value and we deduct that from the refund. Right of withdrawal

What it is made of

Stated before you order, not after it arrives. How we read the four categories

Material declarationRequired for all footwear sold in the European Union under Directive 94/11/EC. The material shown is the one covering at least 80% of the surface of that part; where no single material reaches 80%, the two main materials are stated. The same symbols appear on the label sewn inside the shoe.
PartCategorySpecific material
UpperParte superiorLeatherCouroFull-grain calf leather (couro)
Lining and insockForro e palmilhaLeatherCouroVegetable-tanned calf lining and leather insole (couro)
OutsoleSolaLeatherCouroOak-bark leather outsole (couro)

Measured, not described

Construction
Blake — Resoleable, but only with a Blake machine
Resoleable
Only by a workshop with a Blake machine. Not covered by our Resole Voucher.
Last
Standard — Tapered almond toe
Width across the ball
98 mm at EU 42
Heel height
26 mm
Weight
410 g per shoe at EU 42
Chromium VI in leather
Compliant — at or below 3 mg/kg
Azo dyes
Compliant with the restriction in force
Metal fittings
Within the nickel release limits for prolonged skin contact
Country of manufacture
Manufactured in the European Union.

Sizes, in centimetres

Foot length is the number that means the same thing everywhere. The width column is what this last gives you at that size.
EUUKUSFoot lengthStandard width
395.56.5up to 24.7 cm92 mm
406.57.5up to 25.3 cm94 mm
4178up to 26 cm96 mm
4289up to 26.7 cm98 mm
43910up to 27.3 cm100 mm
449.510.5up to 28 cm102 mm
4510.511.5up to 28.7 cm104 mm
461112up to 29.3 cm106 mm

Sizing varies between lasts even within our own range. Convert your measurement

Wearing them in, and keeping them

Break-in

New leather shoes need a break-in period. Expect 2–4 wears before the upper softens and the insole starts taking the shape of your foot.

Polishing

Cream polish every 8–10 wears; a light conditioning wax every third application.

Shoe trees

Insert cedar trees while the shoes are still warm, within ten minutes of taking them off.

After rain

If they get wet, wipe them down, stuff loosely with paper for the first hour, then tree them and dry away from any heat source for 24 hours.

Bought with it